Authenticity
is an ephemeral thing. It's like grasping air, the goal always falls
short of the reach. What is the longing for and what does it mean?
“It
increases your cancer risk by 30%”
“What
does?” I asked suddenly tuning back in.
“Oh,
all the octogenarians around here will be concerned to hear that.”
Same
guest was earlier extolling the virtues of wood-fired pizza, “the
authentic way.” Personally I relish those perilously carcinogenic
charred edges: the frisson of risk and derring-do! But trust me, you
can achieve this in an electric oven, although the flavour will lack
the gorgeous phenolic smokiness that wood imparts.
It
got me thinking about what a slippery customer authenticity is
though. In a world scraped flat by the rollers of corporate
juggernauts – where you can get the same Pizza Rut pizza in
identical surroundings in Dagenham, Delhi and Dubai – the soulless
sprawling tentacles of uniformity are driving a search for
authenticity. It's certainly a theme that crops up in the literature
and attracts people to Tuscany and Umbria. Even Italians refer to
this region as 'old Italy'.
Authenticity
is an ephemeral thing. It's like grasping air, the goal always falls
short of the reach. What is the longing for and what does it mean? Is
it simply harking back to some apocryphal past? Those who extol the
virtues of the simple contadini life, presumably aren't thinking
about rickets, tuberculosis and high infant mortality? Paradoxically,
these bucolic romances exist alongside and within the Tuscany that is
a magnet for the wealthy. The buzz this week is that Hugh Grant is
moving to Anghiari. Oh hum.
A
few years ago I remember seeing an article in The Observer Sunday
Supplement about Tuscany. The pictures were fantastic. Boulevards of
cypress trees, clouds of lavender, old stone farmhouses decorated
with cobs of corn, long tables dressed in blue gingham. It pushed
every 'Tuscany' button, evoking some pastoral convivial idyll. Last
year English guests Phil and Cath told us they bought Italian produce
from Fattoria La Vialla Organic Farm & showed us a very
beautifully and expensively produced brochure which was sent to them
along with gift packaged samples. I recognised the place from the
Sunday Supplement and then I realised it was less than half and hour
from us! A PR drive that saw features in foreign broadsheet papers?
Elaborate brochures? Introductory gift packs? I was suspicious. This
outfit could not possibly be Italian! We had to go and see for
ourselves.
First
thing I noticed on the car park were the rustic carports created out
of branches with bamboo and broom roofs. That and the fact that they
were rammed with German and Dutch registered cars. It was buzzing.
There was a maitre'd directing visitors. This place clearly had it's
act together! Very un-Italian. Then, in spite of my diminutive
stature we were greeted in ..... German! We caused a bit of a
kerfuffle by replying in Italian - our German not being up to much.
She switched to Italian.
We
were directed through to the outdoor café past a great mushroom
shaped haystack and a 1940s pick-up truck so highly polished and
manicured it was clearly a prop. Hens bobbed and begged for crumbs
around the café tables. The scene before me was that Sunday
supplement spread. Theme-Park Tuscany. Or so I thought.
Donkey Oaty |
We
had a walk around the olive groves where the air was heavy with the
fragrance of thyme and lavender along the paths. The groves had
modern piped irrigation systems and, looking into the buildings,
there were stainless steel mills and storage tanks only thinly
disguised by the ubiquitous dried broom and bamboo. There was a
serious business here. We passed the long tables set for lunch on the
terrace of a large attractive farmhouse and stood on the steps
looking down the wide gravel path lined with cypresses. It was a
delight to chance upon a couple of grumpy mules taking dirt baths –
straight out of Don Quixote! Then we wended our way back to the café
through great clouds of lavender. This place was so charming. It
couldn't be for real.
Cypress Boulevard |
Back
at the café we had a light lunch to sample the produce. The Olive
oil was to die for. The depth of colour, cloudiness and the sharp
peppery notes told me this was a first pressing. No doubt about it's
credentials. The bread was heavenly – it had that authentic
smokiness with a robust crust and soft close textured interior. (For
a second I grasped the meaning of authentic, then it slipped away.)
The spelt salad and the dips made the meal complete. My friends ate
the very substantial amount of pecorino with a look of ecstasy. I
swept the crumbs from the table bringing a flock of friendly hens
rushing towards us. Maybe it was the sun, or the scene or even the
light refreshing vino bianco or a combination – but my cynicism was
overthrown. We headed for the shop and bought everything we'd
eaten... in industrial quantities!
I've
returned half a dozen times since. I will never make my own Olive &
Caper Sugo again – because I've got about 12 jars of theirs in my
pantry! The Torbolone Organic Red Wine costs €5 a bottle but tastes
like it should cost twenty. And I've since discovered that it is in
fact Italian owned although to be honest I don't think I encountered
a single Italian on the front line. Belgian, Dutch and German yes.
Italian no. My friend in our village, Irene used to work there and
tells me they do employ Italians.
I
recently read Extra Virginity: The Sublime & Scandalous World of Olive Oil by Tom Mueller
which gave me an insight into the economics of olive oil production.
Leave aside the corruption scandals which have dented the reputation
of Italian oil; the markets are flooded with intensively farmed
Spanish, Turkish & Greek olive oil which depresses the price to a
level where people think twice about paying the price for the small
production stuff. In Tuscan shops you see Greek and Spanish oil at €4
or €5 a litre sitting next to one literally from down the road at
€11 or €12. The Spanish in particular have invested heavily in
intensive cultivars and sophisticated storage. The Spanish oil you
buy might be more than a year old and produced largely by machines.
In contrast, the Italian oil will be labour intensive and fresh. You
can taste the difference. Then it suddenly dawned on me. Fattoria La
Vialla is successful because of
the theatre they built around their products. The products work
because the whole package pulls in the punters. An authentically
modern way to preserve some authentically good tastes and traditions.
If you like Breakfast In Tuscany, you might like my poetry blog: Crackle & Drag
If you like Breakfast In Tuscany, you might like my poetry blog: Crackle & Drag
No comments:
Post a Comment